Sakura Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)

Family: Atyidae

Sakura Cherry Shrimp — the classic pink-red morph of Neocaridina davidi and the best beginner shrimp in the hobby. Reaches 2-2.5 cm, thrives at 18-26 °C in almost any stable freshwater tank, and breeds continuously without brackish water.

Care parameters

Water temperature
18–26 °C
pH
6.5–8
GH hardness
6–15 dGH
Adult length
2–2.5 cm
Minimum tank
20 L
Water layer
Bottom — grazing plants and hardscape
Difficulty
Easy
Temperament
Extremely peaceful
Origin
Selective-bred form of the East Asian Neocaridina

Species overview

Sakura Cherry Shrimp is the most popular color morph of Neocaridina davidi, the hardy East Asian atyid that aquarists in Taiwan and Japan spent two decades selecting from wild stock for ever-deeper red. Compared with the original wild-type cherry, the Sakura grade shows an even, translucent pink-red over the whole body with a darker cherry saddle on the back. It reaches 2-2.5 cm, grazes algae and biofilm all day, and tolerates 18-26 °C across a wide pH and hardness range, which makes it the standard starter shrimp and a genuinely useful cleanup crew in planted community tanks. It breeds readily in pure freshwater: the female carries 20-30 green eggs under her abdomen for about three weeks, and the hatchlings emerge as miniature adults needing no special food beyond fine powder and the biofilm of a mature tank. Keep ten or more for stable groups, avoid copper medication, and provide dense moss so the young survive alongside small fish.

Native biotope

Habitat
Any stable freshwater community aquarium
Flow
Gentle current
Dissolved O₂
Moderate oxygen

Aquascape & hardware

Substrate
Fine inert gravel or shrimp-safe sand
Hardscape
Java moss and driftwood for grazing
Plants
Dense moss and fine-leaf plants

Temperament, diet & tankmates

Schooling
Groups of 10 or more
Diet
Algae and biofilm grazer; color foods keep hues intense
Recommended tankmates
  • Other Neocaridina color morphs — Interbreed freely — keep one color per tank for pure lines
  • Small rasboras, tetras and ricefish — Ignore adult shrimp; shrimplets need moss cover
  • Otocinclus catfish — Perfect algae-eating companion, same gentle temperament
  • Nerite and small freshwater snails — Share the cleanup crew role, no competition
Avoid keeping with
  • Large crayfish and big-mouth cichlids — Will prey on shrimp of any size
  • Copper-based medications — Lethal to all invertebrates — read labels before treatment
  • Pesticide-treated plants — Residual insecticides wipe out an entire colony

Breeding & notes

Sexual dimorphism
Females are larger, deeper-bodied and far more colorful, with a rounded underbelly and a visible saddle of developing eggs; males stay smaller, slimmer and almost transparent pink.
Breeding method
Breeds prolifically in pure freshwater. The female molts, releases pheromones, then carries 20-30 green eggs under her swimmerets for about three weeks; hatchlings are fully formed miniature shrimp. No larval stage and no salt needed — a mature, mossy tank produces new batches monthly.

Frequently asked questions

How many Sakura Cherry Shrimp should I start with?

Ten to fifteen. Shrimp are social in a quiet way — larger groups graze more confidently, show better color, and establish breeding faster than a lonely pair.

Why are my cherry shrimp turning brown or losing color?

Two usual causes: mixed bloodlines (crossed with other Neocaridina colors, which drifts back toward the wild brown form), or stress from high temperature or nitrate. Keep colors pure, water below 26 °C, and nitrates under 20 mg/L.

Can cherry shrimp live with bettas or goldfish?

Adult cherries usually survive with a calm betta in a planted tank, though babies will be eaten. Goldfish and any large-mouthed fish will eat adults too. Dedicated shrimp tanks are the only way to raise a colony.

Do cherry shrimp need a heater?

Usually not. They are comfortable from 18 to 26 °C, which covers most living rooms year-round. Stability matters more than the exact number — avoid spots near windows or radiators that swing the temperature daily.

Why did my shrimp die right after I bought it?

Almost always acclimation shock or an uncycled tank. Drip-acclimate new shrimp over an hour, match temperature, and verify ammonia and nitrite are zero before adding them. New arrivals also hide and refuse food for a day or two — that is normal, not illness.