Family: Channidae
A large predatory snakehead native to China, Russia and Korea. Powerful and hardy, but must be kept alone — expert-level care.
A Channidae species native to China, Russia (Amur), Korean Peninsula: Channa argus lives bottom; rests and forages low over clear streams, rivers and still waters. Aggressive predator — keep alone. Adults reach 70–100 cm. It is one of the aquarium-kept Channa species we profile, alongside Channa asiatica, Channa aurantimaculata, Channa gachua.
It depends on your jurisdiction — the species is banned or restricted in many countries and regions because of its invasive record. Check local regulations before acquiring one, and never, under any circumstances, release it.
Commonly 50–80 cm in captivity with excellent care, and it keeps growing for years. If you cannot house its adult size, choose the much smaller Channa asiatica instead.
In suitable climates, outdoor ponds are among the best homes — with absolutely secure containment. Any escape is an ecological catastrophe and often a legal one.
Yes — the suprabranchial organ works similarly to a labyrinth, letting snakeheads survive hours out of water and thrive in oxygen-poor conditions.
For a while, yes. It breathes air via a suprabranchial organ and tolerates desiccation — it can live for hours to days in damp conditions, which is where the folklore about buried snakeheads comes from. But remember: breathing air doesn't mean tolerating foul water. Ammonia and nitrite kill it like any other fish, so filtration and aeration remain essential.
Adults reach 70–100 cm; the profile floor is 1,000 L, but plan on 1.5 m+ or a pond. It's an active giant with an enormous appetite — small tanks crash fast. Sub-adults (30–50 cm) can transition in 600–800 L, but adult housing must be planned in advance. Legally: it's a food fish in China but classed as invasive in several countries — check local regulations before keeping or (never) releasing.
Essentially no. It's an apex predator that eats everything: tankmates big enough to avoid swallowing will fight it, and anything smaller becomes food. The only workable 'community' is multiple juveniles fed heavily in the same tank, or impossibly large companions that also tolerate it. For display, one specimen alone is the correct setup.
Strict carnivore — fish, shrimp, frogs in the wild. In captivity, train onto quality carnivore pellets or arowana food as the base, with small fish, loaches, and shrimp as variety. Avoid fatty mammal meats (pork, beef) — same fatty-liver risk as arowanas. Training method: fast it, then tease live food with long tweezers, gradually substituting frozen then pellets.
It's eurythermal, comfortable from 4–22 °C — no heating needed for overwintering, and summer heat actually demands cooling and extra aeration. Appetite and condition peak around 20–22 °C. In unheated northern rooms it fasts quietly through winter, which is normal — don't force-feed with a heater.
Nocturnal predator startle response. Sudden light, people approaching, or water-change activity trigger panicked rushes. Three fixes: a heavy mesh lid (it can dislodge ordinary covers), no surprise lights after dark, and gentle maintenance. New arrivals thrash most for the first two weeks — dim, quiet acclimation settles them.